Bandhani, leheriya, ajrakh and block print: Indian prints explained
5 min read
Bandhani
Bandhani is a tie-dye craft associated with Gujarat and Rajasthan. Tiny points of fabric are pinched and tied tightly with thread, then the cloth is dyed; the tied points resist the dye and remain as small dots. In hand-tied bandhani the dots are slightly raised and never perfectly identical.
Leheriya
Leheriya comes from Rajasthan and gives diagonal wave-like stripes. The cloth is rolled diagonally, tied at intervals and dyed, sometimes several times in different colours. It is usually done on light fabrics such as cotton, georgette and chiffon.
Ajrakh
Ajrakh is a block-printing tradition of Kutch and Sindh that uses resist printing and repeated dyeing, traditionally with indigo and madder. The patterns are geometric and symmetrical, in deep blue, red, black and white. Genuine ajrakh is often printed on both sides of the cloth.
Hand block print
In block printing, carved wooden blocks are dipped in dye and stamped by hand, one colour at a time. Look for slight misalignments where blocks meet and small variations in colour depth. Screen and digital prints imitate the look but are completely regular.
Buying and caring
Hand-made versions cost more because of the labour involved, so a very low price usually means a machine print. That is fine if it is sold honestly. Wash all of these in cold water, separately at first, and dry them in shade.
More guides
- Cotton, rayon, chanderi or silk: choosing a kurta fabricWhich fabric suits which weather and occasion, and how each one washes.
- How to find your kurta sizeThe three measurements to take and how to read a size chart properly.
- Straight, A-line or anarkali: kurta shapes explainedWhat each cut looks like, what it pairs with and when to wear it.
- How to wash printed cotton so the colours lastFirst-wash steps for block prints and dark colours, and how to dry and iron them.
- How to choose a chaniya choli for garbaFabric, flare, weight and length: what makes a chaniya choli comfortable to dance in.
